Amerigo Savigno: Simplicity is the Story at the Michelin Star Trattoria Amerigo 1934
What is it like to dine at one of Italy’s Michelin restaurants? Trattoria da Amerigo, Savigno had to be one of the best examples of excellent regional Italian food we had this year, and more importantly, a good lesson in the importance of tradition and simplicity in food.
Savigno may be a hidden gem, but as the epicenter for truffles in Emilia Romagna, I’d argue that it’s one of the best cities in Italy for food, and Amerigo’s interpretation of this lovely food is delectable!
Have you ever dined at a Michelin star restaurant? Do you feel naturally at ease at the prospect of dining at such a place, or maybe a little intimidated at not knowing what to wear or how to order the food or bottle of wine?
Maybe you’re thinking it’s time for a tire change on your car (btw, you’d be correct since it’s the same Michelin company)!
I admit, before we saw this charming trattoria in person, I was a little intimidated. But it didn’t take long for any false pretense to go away.
Dining at a Michelin restaurant can be a wonderful way to experience the food at top-rated restaurants around the world.
But it can also sometimes be a stuffy and pretentious experience, with self-proclaimed foodies and critics salivating at the chance to dissect the details and motivation behind every tiny morsel and sharing their superior knowledge with the rest of us at the table. Ugh.
We’ve had both types of experiences over the years, and the more good food we’ve eaten in our travels, the more we’ve come to appreciate what exactly good food means, at least to us.
Amazing food doesn’t need to be unapproachable or elitist.
For us, it’s all about the freshest and most flavorful ingredients, artfully and creatively prepared by a skilled Chef.
That’s it. Simple elegance is very underrated.
Michelin Restaurants Bologna
This simple philosophy was so well illustrated at Amerigo 1934, one of the best meals we’ve had this year in Italy, in the small town of Savigno in the lovely Apennine mountains outside Bologna.
The legendary trattoria is owned and operated by Michelin Chef Alberto Bettini, whose grandfather Amerigo started the local eatery in 1934.
The region of Emilia Romagna is considered by many to be the culinary capital of Italy with so many traditional Italian foods produced in cities like Bologna, Modena, and Parma, among others.
And the restaurants in Bologna, Italy are some of the best in the country.
But venture out to the smaller villages and you’ll find even more unexpected and hidden gems.
The village of Savigno for example is widely known for their truffles, hosting the annual truffle festival each November and supplying the world with these exquisite morsels of black and white funghi.
When it comes to Michelin restaurants, Bologna is no stranger to this level of culinary excellence.
After all, one of the world’s best restaurants — Osteria Francescana — hails from nearby Modena and consistently tops the list.
There are many good Bologna restaurants, but our favorites always seem to be the ones whose food embodies the tradition of food in Bologna — the food in Italy — simple preparations, letting the ingredients take center stage.
What Does Michelin Star Mean?
As we sat down to enjoy our first dinner at Trattoria Amerigo, the conversation turned to us asking each other what exactly makes a restaurant worthy of a Michelin star, or two, or (gasp) three!
What is a Michelin star restaurant, and exactly what does Michelin star mean? I knew that food was the defining criteria — service, decor, and other non-food factors generally don’t influence the awarding of stars.
Here is what makes a restaurant Michelin-worthy:
1. Using Quality Products
2. Mastery of Flavor and Cooking Techniques
3. Personality of the Chef in the Cuisine
4. Value for Money
5. Consistency of Food
Trattoria da Amerigo 1934
As we gazed around Trattoria da Amerigo, the dining room had a retro feel so authentic — certainly not recreated for any new design sensibility — you might not think anything had been touched since Bettini’s grandparents began serving patrons here over 80 years ago.
The espresso machine is so gorgeously old-school, it would fetch a pretty penny at the Savigno antique market held monthly in the village.
And the simple wooden tables are topped with even simpler red and white checked tablecloths.
We felt as if we were sitting down to Sunday dinner at our grandparents house, and as the quiet waiter approached our table to welcome us, I almost fell off my chair to see it was Chef Bettini himself.
With a warm smile and soft demeanor, he chatted with us about our travels in Italy and where we’d been.
He carefully explained the menu, the special dishes of the day, and answered our few questions. His English was perfect so we didn’t have to worry about ordering food in Italian.
Now I was slightly concerned. This was a Michelin restaurant? So casual and unassuming?
I wondered if this same humility and retro simplicity extend to the food as well.
In the interest of setting the right level of expectation here, now is probably a good time to share with you that just a week earlier, in Kobarid Slovenia, we’d had what may have been the best meal of our lives at the acclaimed Hiša Franko.
Chef Ana Roš is one of the world’s top Chefs, though interestingly the Michelin Guide has yet to rate restaurants in Slovenia.
That may be changing this year (UPDATE: it did change in 2020, and Hiša Franko is now the number 1 listed Michelin star restaurant in Slovenia), and if it does we have no doubt her restaurant will be at the top of the list.
But this dining experience epitomized culinary excellence of the highest quality — the food was like edible art, and each bite beautifully reflected the food of her native Soča Valley.
We mention this because admittedly, our first impression of Amerigo 1934 and our introduction to Chef Bettini and his staff may have initially fooled us into thinking this acclaimed trattoria would deliver less than a superior performance. Looks can be deceiving after all.
But we quickly realized we were missing the point.
Simplicity is the story at Amerigo — the fine balance of rusticity and elegance — and is in no way an indication of its potential as a bestseller!
Fresh and Locally Sourced Ingredients
Chef Bettini and his team source local and seasonal ingredients all from local markets and growers within 20 kilometers of Savigno.
This is an important fact of food science — food simply tastes better the fresher it is.
Food has a shelf life, and freshness is a quality you can literally taste and the brightness of ingredients can be seen and savored in the menu at Trattoria da Amerigo.
Fresh veggies snap and make your mouth water.
The earthy quality of local truffles can not only be inhaled from a mile away but once you’ve experienced the taste of these heady morsels and come to recognize the scent, you can smell them coming before they arrive at your table, like the truffle dogs who unearthed these beauties just hours before.
And let’s talk meat. Would you ever want Beef Tartare that’s not, well, fresh? Oh the horror.
1. Using Quality Products? CHECK √
Our Dinner at Amerigo
The menu at Trattoria da Amerigo is everchanging, so don’t get too attached to a dish unless you plan to return again in a week or two.
Guests may order from several tasting menus or a la carte which features so many traditional Bologna and Modenese dishes.
We were actually tempted by the Baccalá alla Bolognese (salt cod with lemon, oil, and parsley) since we can usually only find and make that ourselves around the holidays.
But instead, we opted for their Late Summer tasting menu and were glad we did.
The restaurant is famous for their Truffle tasting menus and while we both love truffles, the taste can soon overpower everything you eat or drink at dinner, including the wine!
TIP:
If you love truffles, some local tour companies offer afternoon Truffle Hunting Tours in the surrounding hills with local truffle hunters and their truffle dogs (yes, dogs… pigs are no longer used to unearth truffles in Italy).
Then afterwards you’ll dine on the Truffle menu at Trattoria Amerigo! We took the tour a few years ago but unfortunately went on a Monday when the restaurant was closed! Any other day of the week is best for the Truffle tour.
Antipasto — Calzagatti (Modenese Fried Polenta and Beans)
This classic dish of Modena was like comfort food. If you’ve never had polenta, you must try it. Polenta is cornmeal, and sometimes served soft by the ladle full — like grits — or molded into loaves and sliced, then fried.
This version was as delicious as it was beautiful, served bathed in a tangy aspic with al dente summer vegetables and a savory tomato and onion relish.
Antipasto — Minestrone Estivo (Summer Vegetables on soft Polenta)
Chopped fresh summer vegetables cooked al dente — green beans, tomatoes, carrots, greens, zucchini, fava beans, turnips, and onions —on a bed of soft polenta. Freshness in a bowl!
2. Mastery of Flavor and Cooking Techniques? CHECK √
Primo — Cruda Bianca (Carne Cruda / Beef Tartare with White Truffles)
Small tender morsels of beef tartare, sandwiched between and tastefully complemented by delicate whisper-thin shavings of white truffles.
If you’re reluctant to eat raw beef, consider the steak you’ve eaten before that was cooked rare or medium-rare. Butchery is a time-honored tradition in Emilia Romagna and we trust the meat served at Amerigo to be of the utmost freshness and high quality.
Primo — Zucchina Bolognese (Fried Squash Blossoms with Zucchini and Pomodoro)
Italians are famous for using every part of the animal or vegetable, and such is the case with squash blossoms, one of my favorite Italian dishes!
Traditionally, the flowers of summer squash are picked before they open, then fried in a light tempura batter. In some parts of Italy, the flowers are stuffed with a herbed soft cheese and then fried.
Either way, the flowers are flavorful and delicious.
This dish at Trattoria Amerigo was served with zucchini that was lightly sauteéd and perfectly al dente.
Secondo — Gnocchi Tartufo (Gnocchi with Truffles)
Be still my heart! Doesn’t this look incredible? It really was!
Gnocchi is used in some of Italy’s most famous pasta dishes, and I would have thought it might have been too heavy a pasta for these shavings of truffles.
But on the contrary, these two dense and flavorful ingredients are perfect partners.
Such a simple dish but oh so elegant.
Secondo — Coniglio Aceto Balsamico (Rabbit with Balsamic Vinegar)
Pieces of rabbit braised in aceto balsamic (vinegar) with onions and spices, served with an herbed potato terrine, tortellini garnish, and fresh greens with parmigiano reggiano cheese.
Rabbit is mild and tender on its own, and even more succulent in this preparation.
It’s a traditional Italian way to cook it, and one of our favorites ways to eat rabbit.
What’s more, this dish is a beautiful example of traditional ingredients, skillful technique, and local tradition.
3. Personality of the Chef reflected in the Cuisine? CHECK √
Dolce — Gelato Latte Panna e Aceto Balsamico (Milk & Cream Gelato with Balsamic Vinegar)
Talk about simple and a perfect match! Exactly 3 ingredients make this vanilla gelato a perfect Italian dessert — milk, cream, and DOP traditional balsamic vinegar.
If you’ve never tried this, please do. You’ll thank us later!
Dolce — Gelato Crema Altri Tempi (Traditional Egg Gelato)
This rich and creamy traditional egg gelato was full of flavor and the brightness of the yolks give it the vibrant yellow color.
Together with our espressos, this was the sweetest ending to an amazing meal by Chef Alberto Bettini.
Cost of Dinner at Trattoria da Amerigo?
For two of us, this three course dinner with a glass of wine, gelato, and coffee set us back a whopping €112 — $123.50 in USD!
Don’t get us wrong, we usually have several glasses of wine with a good meal, and the selection at Trattoria Amerigo was very good.
But we had enjoyed a few glasses of wine with friends in the square before dinner, so we were set. One more glass of wine with our dinner was all we needed.
4. Value for Money? CHECK √
Finally, the last criteria of Consistency of Food? We’ll just have to come back again and see how it compares on a second visit — all in the name of research :-) — but seeing how they’ve held this title for years, it’s unlikely to change drastically.
If you’re looking to experience some of the best Michelin star restaurants Bologna has to offer, Trattoria Amerigo 1934 is well worth a visit.
Stay the Night: Locanda Amerigo
To complete the Michelin dining experience at Amerigo Savigno, they offer the convenience of staying in their elegant Locanda Amerigo, just a short walk down the street — and we highly recommend it.
They’ve taken one of the oldest buildings in the village and given it a 5-star renovation, adding unique Art Deco touches that complement the trattoria.
The Locanda is small, so book a room well ahead of time.
Each of their 5 rooms are a sumptuous mix of unique industrial salvages and gorgeous antiques.
The beautiful brass and cut-glass doors in our suite for example came from an old department store, and the oversized claw-foot tub was luxurious — together they struck an opulent tone.
Thankfully, the renovation also included good wifi connectivity as well.
While they don’t call it a Bed & Breakfast, but rather “Dinner & Bed”, your room also comes with coffee or cappuccino the next morning at the Trattoria, along with a traditional sweet Italian breakfast — delightful bites of various tortes, biscuits, pies, cakes, and cookies, and their homemade pan brioche.
For a small fee, if you’re really hungry, you can order a bit more like eggs, cold cuts or a cheese platter.
The cost of our room for the night? $111 USD including tax.
If You Go
Trattoria Amerigo 1934, Via Guglielmo Marconi, 14/16, 40053 Savigno BO, Italy
Reservations highly recommended for dinner and overnight accommodations.